My Life Fades, My Vision Dims - Part 1 of many - 50's and early 60's in Germany

 Its a line from The Road Warrior, but it pretty much sums up where I'm headed now that I've turned 76.

I'm in good health for the most part and can still hike in the mountains, drive where I want to and still remember most peoples names but feel the need to put down in writing some of my life and experiences and my checkered past.

I was born in Emporia, Kansas in 1950 and named after my father and grandfather. 

I have only one memory of my birth father. I was four at the time and he took my brother Larry and I to a baseball field (I think it was in Bartlesville, Oklahoma) to fly one of those wire controlled model airplanes. That's it.

My mother remarried when I was five or 6, to a soldier from nearby Ochelata. His name was Donald G. Biggerstaff and he was stationed at Fort Sill. 

Not long after that, we moved to Lawton, Oklahoma and lived there until 1958 when my stepfather (who from here on out I will refer to as my father) was reassigned to Germany. 

 Me playing catch in 1957

We spent most of his month's leave visiting his family, who owned a dairy farm near Ochelata and my mother's mother, who had a place on Council Grove Lake. 

Pictured are bottom left to right: Aunt Faye, Larry, My Father, My Mother, My Grandmother Pearl, me, Cousin Cleta (Who I was deeply infatuated with), My Grandfather (No. 2), cousin Charles. The photo was taken by my Uncle Buster.
 

After driving cross country we boarded a refurbished World War II troop ship called the USNS Rose for Germany.

 
 

 

I don't remember a whole lot about the voyage over but I do remember that just a day or so out of the Brooklyn Naval Yard, we had to stop in St. John's, Newfoundland for a pregnant lady who decided to give birth. 

I also remember that a porter ( I think they were called) would walk down our corridor playing a tune on a small xylophone when it was our turn to go to the dining room. And I still have a certificate that was given to us kids declaring that we were members of the Royal Order of Atlantic Voyageurs. (They misspelled both my first and last names, sigh).

We landed in Bremerhaven, Germany and drove in my fathers 1956 Chevy to Fussen which is in the south of the country.

Fussen had a small garrison and is nestled in the foothills of the Alps, just a stone's throw away from Austria. The town is known for its three castles. The High Castle, seen below in the winter,  Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau. The was originally settled by the Romans to guard a trade route to Italy.

 

It was a great place for a kid. During the winter we took our sleds to "Killer Hill". So named because at the bottom was a barbed wire fence and train tracks. No one died while I was there but it was a challenge especially if you were on a German sled. You know, the ones that you sit upright on unlike our sleds. 

Neuschwanstein was the model for Disneyland's castle and Hohenschwangau, which was built in the 1300's was the boyhood home of the Mad King Ludwig, who built Neuschwanstein.

Our school was interesting as well. Two rooms in the Administrative Building. One room had Grades 1 thru 6 and the other Grades 7 thru 12. Each grade was lined up in one row and had one teacher for each room. 

In early Spring of 1959, the garrison closed and was turned over to the German Army. My family was sent to Stuttgart for a brief period of time and then on to Mannheim where we would spend the rest of our tour. 

We moved into a two bedroom apartment in Ben Franklin Village, a base that had everything that reminded us of what we missed about the states. A nice PX, Hospital, Commissary,  Elementary and High School. There was even a A&W located just a couple miles of base. At times, there were over 15,000 service personnel and dependents on the base.

Being late Spring, I was bummed that I wasn't able to register for the Summer Baseball League. Meeting other kids wasn't an issue since there were 24 apartments in each building and a good 20 or so buildings. 

The next two years I was drafted by two teams for summer ball, the Phillies in the minors and the Cubs the next year in the majors. The soldiers that coached us got together every season and "drafted" players to make up their teams. I was fortunate to have great coaches both years. Lots of infield, outfield drills. How to field a grounder. What to do with one out and a man on second. They made my teammates and me better players.

When I played for the Cubs, I caught, pitched and even played third base on a couple occasions. One game I wore my brand new Boy Scout wingtips to the game, contrary to my father's instructions. During the game a player on the other team hit a hot shot right at me. I snagged it and being the "ham" that I was, immediately wiped the dust off of my new shoes on my pant legs. The crowd of parents loved it. My dad, who had chosen to attend the game, did not. 

I didn't wear those shoes to a game again.

Another memory was a game against the worst team in the league. They hadn't won a single game and I was convinced that I could pitch the game and we'd win. Our coach had his own rotation and it was the other pitcher on our teams day. Our pitcher only lasted 2/3 of the first inning giving up a bunch of runs and putting us in a hole. I took over in relief and no hit them for the next 6 1/3 innings. We did win.

Don't remember much of my fourth grade class, as I was only there for about 2 months or so, but here's a picture of my fifth grade class with Mr. Laredo. I'm the fifth one from the right next to one of my best friends at the time, Andy Reyna (left of me). I went by Joe Eisenhauer in those days. I guess my mother wasn't willing to go through whatever process that it took to change my name at the time.

 

 

When I was in the sixth grade, one of the kids that I had met was playing on a "minor" league team and had a game one day so I tagged along. I was sitting on the fence next to his dugout when I heard the crack of a bat and turned just in time to get beaned between the eyes. I dropped off the fence and was surrounded by anxious parents. I said I was no worse for the wear and headed home.

A week or so later my teacher, Mr. Gray sent a note home to my mom suggesting that I get my eyes checked because I had been squinting at the blackboard. Turned out that I needed glasses, which I would wear for the next 20 years. So much for not being worse for the wear.

Mr. Gray also took us to the Opera in Mannheim on a field trip. We saw Mozart's The Magic Flute. I was quite the show. I became a fan of classical music after that. 

Lots of other memories: Riding my bike with friends in the woods on the base. Hunting for bullets or spent cartridges at the firing ranges. Saturday trips to the movies with a quarter from my folks. (10 cents for the movie, 10 cents for popcorn and 5 cents for a coke). Playing the recorder in a Christmas concert for parents. Starting a league for Dice Baseball with friends (I loved the Dodgers and Duke Snider). Going to the library above the bank and being exposed to Edgar Rice Burroughs and books about travel to exotic places and mountain climbing. These times made a contribution to the person I've become.

In early 1962 my father was reassigned to Fort Lewis, Washington and I left many good friends behind for new adventures. 

 

 

 

  

Big Sur - The Seven Steps - Last Day at Montana de Oro

 We had talked about going to Big Sur prior to our trip so we finally worked out a day to head north out of town. Neither Mary or I had been up that way in many years and everybody is probably aware that so major landslides periodically close Hwy 1. What i didn't know, but found out later, that Hwy 1 had just reopened in February from a huge slide 2 years ago.

We cruised past San Simeon and made our first stop at Piedras Blancas Light Station overlook. We were treated with a couple dozen Seals that were resting on shore in brilliant sunshine. 

 

From there it was on to Ragged Point with a beautiful view south from the cliffs.

 

 Continuing north, we came upon the slide area that had closed Highway 1 for a couple years. The site was so massive that I could see why it took so long to repair. Unfortunately none of my pictures show the slide area, just the retaining walls built below the road.

 All along Highway 1 there are opportunities to stop for views.

 After taking this picture of Mary, we saw the Seven Steps picnic area. Named so because there are seven rock steps that led up to a picnic table and an natural spring. On our way back we saw some people at the table filling jugs with water.

 

Our next stop was at Julie Pfeffer Burns State Park. We parked on the side of Hwy. 1 and watked down to the overlook of McWay Cove Falls. It's 80 feet tall and runs right into the beach. About 27 zigzagging miles from Carmel, it attracted a lot of viewers.

  We crossed over the highway and walked into the park and headed up a trail. Lots of families so we didn't go very far up Canyon Falls Trail. Lots of Redwoods in the McWay Creek Canyon. Some of the Redwoods reach 300 ft. in height and are over 2,500 years old. 

 The next stop was just a bit further on at the Partington Cove overlook. Partington Cove was a small port for tanbark shipping. Tanbark is used in tanning leather.

While walking back to the car, Mary stuck up a conversation with a couple who were armed with binoculars and what appeared to be a TV antenna. She found out that they were California Condor monitors. Evidently Condors frequent the coast and have their nests there. Here's me at the Condor Mosaic. 

Our final stop of the day was at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. As we drove in we decided to not pay the parking/entrance fee and would turn around at the Ranger gate. 

A nice ranger greeted us and we told her our plan to turn around and as a joke I asked her if the Big Sur Lodge gift shop had potato chips. They do, she informed me, but you'd get a better selection at a shop outside the park. We thanked her for the info, turned around and parked at the Lodge.

I did buy chips at the guest shop and put them in the car. They were going to be a nice snack on the way home. When Mary went to open one of the bags, she found a tick on the bag. Then she found another crawling up the console by her seat. We figured that she might have picked them up when we walked thru some grass at McWay Falls.

We walked up the Pfeiffer Falls trail (about a mile) and Mary told me about her first visit to the park years ago. Again, lots of folks on the trail and at the overlook for the falls.

 We took the Valley View trail down and headed back to the car for our return trip to Morro Bay. One last stop for a photo of the iconic Bixby Creek Bridge.

 

Mary kayaked across the bay to the Spit one day when the tide was in. I worked a bit on this blog and got some sun on the deck.

We took two trips out to Montana de Oro, once to walk on the beach on the Spit and the other to walk the Bluff Trail.

The Spit is a 4 mile long sand bar and dune system that separates Morro Bay and its Estuary from the ocean. We headed south and found more of the Velella velella that washed up by the hundreds of thousands. They're tiny jellyfish that are also referred to as By-the-Wind Sailors.

 

 Looking North on the Spit.

For our last day we did the Bluff Trail Loop at Montana de Oro. A mixture of boardwalk and trail it offers more beautiful views of the coastline.

 

 That's it. A great month in Morro Bay and the Central Coast. I hope it's not my last visit.

 

A Blue Billed Duck - Still more Wine Tasting

 The last week of my month in Morro Bay began with a road trip south to Oso Flaco lake and Guadalupe- Nipomo Dunes NWR.

  What attracted me to Oso Flaco was the 4 mile long beach to the south and the 1/2 mile to the north. The south end is only easily accessible due to the width of the dunes from Oso Flaco. There are also other "entrances" to the south but you have to walk a mile or so over very large dunes to get to the ocean. At Oso Flaco, California Parks has built to walkways over the lake and the dunes, each around a mile long. A much easier slog.

 Oso Flaco Lake with the dunes in the background.

 Mary on the walkway where she spotted the Blue Billed Duck.

 

Male Ruddy Ducks, during the mating season, have a sky blue bill. I'd never seen any thing like it. I've added this link so that you can see it.

 https://www.marylandzoo.org/animal/north-american-ruddy-duck/

 We made it to the beach overlook then went down a steep dune and began walking south. Because there as so few people on the beach there, there were tons of birds feeding in the surf. And I do mean tons. Sandpipers, Snowy Plovers and Herons.

  

Us on the deserted beach.

 

Since it was still early when we got back to the parking area, we decided to have some lunch in Avila Beach and take a drive over the mountains to Los Oscos Valley.

 

We had picked out a place called Fat Cats Cafe. First we went into town and walked around looking for it when I remembered seeing it on our first trip there on the same fishing dock that we had a beer and snacks at Mersea's.

 

I had a Seafood Philly (interesting) and Mary ordered a open face crab salad. One bite into it and Mary pulls out a piece of what looked like plastic. A second bite, same thing. She asked the waiter what it was and after talking with the cooks, said that it was crab cartilage or something and normal. Ruined Mary's lunch. She wouldn't be wanting crab for a while after that. However, the waiter did the right thing by apologizing and taking her meal off the bill.

 

We headed out of town via the See Canyon Road. It wound up thru the foothills eventually turning to dirt and then back to pavement. Once on top we were treated to awesome views of Los Oscos Valley from the Rock to San Luis Obispo. Very cool.

 

 The next day we returned to Paso Robles after our morning beach walks for a visit to Dark Star Cellars, a favorite of both of us for their Rhone blends.

 

As we were getting off the Old Creek Road, Mary found the address where a few years ago she and our friend Chris had spent a week in a house they rented. It was way more remote that I thought from hearing about it back then, but a great location for relaxation. She also brought up a winery that they had visited and loved the owner who worked in the tasting office.

 

So on our way back to Morro Bay, we found Rocky Creek Cellars and pulled in. It's kinda hard to find, but if you're out that way it's near where Hwy 41 meets Old Creek Road. 

 

We walked into the tasting room and no one was around so we just kinda looked around. Mary remarked that the decor had changed a bit but we were in the right place.

 

In walks a gentleman eating some sort of BBQ and said " I didn't hear you pull in".

 

Meet John Somogyi Jr., a Hungarian immigrant who owns the winery.

 

 

 John is a guy who, in my opinion, has had a incredible life. I believe he told us that he was 84 years old and still working everywhere in the winery. He has worked in the timber industry, owned and ran a ranch and now owns a winery. There were so many other jobs that I can't remember all of them.

 Rocky Creek Cellars hand picks all of their grapes unlike the bigger wineries. He recruits his family and workers and all their kids to get it done. They make 6 different single variety wines About a 1000 cases I think he said, sold only at the winery. We were happy to by a few bottles and support him. It was truly a gem of a find. Kudos to Mary for sharing it with me.

 If your ever around that area, please drop in and see him. You won't regret the effort. 

 

More SLO hikes - Wine Tasting - Cayucos - Back to the Ranch

 I had received an email from Turley Cellars about a wine tasting event pairing their wines with pasta and fresh mushrooms from local producers. I had dropped by the winery shortly after arriving in Morro Bay and made a reservation for 3 PM on aSaturday. 

 Mary and I drove over early planning a hike in the Three Bridges Oak Preserve located in Atascadero.  The Preserve features several different types of native California oak trees including blue oak, coastal live oak, and canyon live oak. Three miles of trails with 670 feet of elevation gain take you from shade to great views of the Paso Robles/Templeton/Atascadero valley.

 Mary and I headed up towards the Madrone trail. It was a Saturday so lots of folks were enjoying the Preserve. All the trails have interpretive signs detailing flora & fauna.

 

 Mary on the Oak Woodlands trail.

 

  Mary at the top. The mosquitos were bad so we didn't stay long.

 

After the hike we were ready to do some wine tasting. Turley Vineyards has been a favorite since I was told about it 9 or 10 years ago by friends Pat and Larry Vasquez. They make Zinfandel's from Paso Robles, Lodi, Napa and the Sierra foothills. All very good.

From Tin City in Paso Robles, Etto Pasta made a great dish with fresh pasta, fried capers, fresh mushrooms, basil and olive oil sauce. We talked briefly with the owner/chef who had lived in Colorado in the past. We didn't get a chance to talk with the local mushroom grower, but his product was A+.

 

Mary with Turley Zin and Etto Pasta

 

Next day we set out on another road trip, this time to the south and Solvang. Mary drove us from Santa Maria through the Sisqoc River valley to Los Olivos, a picturesque little wine country town. It gave me a chance to look at the surrounding countryside and see things that I don't see when driving. From there we stopped at Buttonwood for a tasting, that I had visited a couple weeks before. We had tasted their Grenache Blanc and she liked it enough that I thought "Hey, let's go there". Once again Cate was a great hostess and a couple hours later (and a few more bottles purchased) we drove down to Solvang. 

 Mary had visited Solvang back in the 90's or so, so we didn't spend much time in town and eventually headed over to Buellton to the Firestone/Walker Brewery for lunch.

From there it was back through Solvang then down to Nojoqui Falls for a return visit. 

 

 The following day I found out early in the morning that my longtime friend Bob Reed had passed away from a heart attack. Bob and I had known each other since the early 90's and had climbed 14ers, watched the Perseids Meteor Showers on the hood of my Toyota in the Snowy Range of Wyoming and where we ate breakfast at the Centennial Cafe (We serve 100 people, 10 at a time), survived the mobs at Yellowstone and escaped the vampires of Lamont, Idaho (another story for another time). We sang Beatles songs in his Monte Carlo as we drove up to the Rawah Wilderness to camp. We watched Man Soap Operas like Aussie Rules Football, the WWF and listened to more music than I can remember. He was instrumental in my wine education and an original member of the Zep Commandoes. 

Bob was incredibly smart, funny and a loyal and trusted friend. His passing leaves a emptiness in my heart that won't be filled. 

 On the 22nd we set out for the 4 or 5 mile drive to Cayucos. I had only driven through the downtown area once on my many trips out to Morro Bay. It was memorable because I came upon a woman lying in the middle of the right hand lane. Another gentleman had stopped and was trying to help her so I did so as well. She had a pretty nasty cut on her head (she had fallen off her bike). I eventually got her to move out of the street after she had convinced us that she was okay. I offered to call the paramedics, but she declined. Someone else did. 

 Me on the Cayucos Pier

 

Cayucos California

We walked around town checking out restaurants and coffee shops. Not a lot going on in Cayucos, but it's a nice little town.

The 23rd was another SLO market day, but we went down to the beach in the morning and spent some time checking out the tidal pools.

 

 

The Tidal Pools with the Rock in the background. 

 

Pismo clams on the rocks.

 

 

Mary had hiked the Johnson Ranch in SLO on a previous trip and had liked it enough to go with me before we headed downtown for Market Night.

 

Johnson Ranch has several multi-use trails and connects with the Irish Hills trails that we had hiked previously. A beautiful piece of property with wind swept grasses and live oaks. 

 

We had seen a few mountain bikers on the way, but when we arrived at the trailhead there were 15 or 20 kids on bikes (with a couple adults). Talk about timing.

 

We were still early when we got downtown so I had wanted to explore some of the other streets just to take a look around. We found a open air marketplace called the Creamery. Lots of Wine Tasting, Restaurants and Boutiques. Among them was Mistura a Peruvian restaurant with a nice bar, so we went in and had a glass of wine.

 

 Yes, I changed my shirt after the hike.

 

 

Mary Arrives - Let's Hike - SLO walk - Bubble Gum Alley

 After the Stouts left I had a few days to myself so I did a couple beach walks, headed up North to the Harmony Headlands and decided to torture myself with a climb of Valencia Peak.

 

Looking North on Morro's 2 mile long beach.

 Harmony Headlands is just15 or so minutes north of Morro. It's a former ranch road so nothing challenging but a very beautiful walk to the ocean.

 

 Harmony Headlands from the end of the trail.

 

The next day I challenged my 75 year old legs with trip up Valencia Peak. It's the tallest peak in the Montana de Oro State Park. 8000 acres and 7 miles of shoreline.

Valencia is 1347 ft. in elevation and since you start at basically sea level, you do them all. A well maintained trail zigzags up the peak for 2.4 or so miles. With expansive views towards town and further south.

 

 The ridge trail heading towards the summit.

  

 

 

Looking down from the summit at the ridge and trail and Spooner's Cove.

 

 

 

A couple of views from the summit. First looking East towards San Luis Obispo and the second to the South.

 

It was a great hike, there's so much oxygen at sea level, but challenging for me. Just about a 3 hour round trip.

 

Mary arrived around 1 PM on Friday. After unpacking we headed down to the beach for a walk. She loves the ocean and also has been coming here off and on for years.

 

 

 Mary getting her toes into the sand.

 

After the walk we celebrated her arrival with a bottle of French Rose Champagne, Brie and a locally made Rosemary Gouda on the deck.

 

 

 

 The following day, Saturday, we headed north to Cayucos first to view a fishing boat the had become stranded on the rocks on the north end of town. The 79-foot commercial fishing boat that ran aground on July 28, 2017. It's propellers had been entangled in some line and when the crew shut the boat down to try and free it, it drifted up on the rocks. The fuel was pumped out but after a 100K estimate to free it and tow it back for repairs, the owner decided to leave it.

 

 

 

 

 We then headed up to Cambria to find a restaurant/bar that Mary had had a glass of wine at years before with a beautiful view of the ocean and said that she thought the place had been bought by Dauo Cellars. We eventually found the place, but it was abandoned now and didn't seem to be being repaired.

 

After that we went to Harmony (Pop. 18) where there's a tasting room, old post office, glass blowing business, food trucks and wedding venue.

 

 

 

 

 We had some time before the Saturday Morro Farmers Market so we took a wharf side walk to check out the sea otters that reside in the bay and decided to stop at Stax wine bar for a glass.

 

 

It was a rainy weekend and a brief but intense shower brought a quick end to shopping at the Farmers Market. 

 

 The next day after a morning walk on the beach we ventured back out to Montana de Oro to find a access point for the spit. Morro Bay has a 4 mile sand spit that runs from the harbor entrance to Montana de Oro where it connects to the mainland. I thought that we had found a quick entry point on a previous visit but hell if I can find it now. We pulled off on a couple of the parking areas along the road and found some access points in case we decide to do a hike there in the coming week.

 

 

 The sand spit stretching back towards Morro Rock and the Bay.

 

 

 On Monday we headed out once again to Montana de Oro to hike the Point Buchon trail. It's only open Friday thru Monday from April to October and crosses land that is both private ranch land as well as land belonging to PG&E where the Diablo Canyon Power Plant is. 

 

It's a great walk of 4 miles out with stunning seascapes. Sea stacks, caves, arches and big vistas are around every corner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 On Wednesday we decided to head south to Avila Beach and possibly do a hike there. We ended up on the bay at a nice restaurant called Mersea's on the dock for a beer and some lunch. Avila is really nice. Had a great vibe, not overrun by tourists. Cute little town. 

 

From there we drove thru Shell Beach, Pismo Beach, Grover Beach and Oceano. In Pismo we stumbled upon a park called Dinosaur Caves Park. Evidently in the 40's, a gentleman started building a large concrete dinosaur that was to be the entrance to sea caves, which have since collapsed. The dinosaur was never completed as local citizens thought it was an eye sore.

 

 

 

Grover Beach was okay, neither of us were crazy about Oceano, but it might have been due to the fact that it's the entry point to Pismo State Beach where they allow cars on the beach. Kinda ruined the vibe.

 

From there I wanted to take a back road to SLO just to check out the area. After a couple wrong turns we ended up on Orcutt Road headed in the right direction. It turned out to be fortuitous as we ended up at a winery that I researched prior to heading to the coast. 

 

The Baileyana, Tangent and True Myth tasting room is located in a small one room former schoolhouse for the children of the farms in the area. We had a very nice and very knowledgeable young woman who gave us a lot of information about the wines and the area since she had grown up in Pismo Beach.

 

The Baileyana Tasting Room. Highly Recommended.

 

 On Thursday we walked on the beach and then headed over to San Luis Obispo (SLO) for a hike and the evening market.

 

We decided upon trails in the Irish Hills section of town and had a nice 3 plus mile hike with great views of SLO.  We took the Froom Creek Connector to the King to the Mariposa.

Lots of live oaks and grasslands right in the city.

 

 

 

 Finally we went to the Thursday Night Market. Very crowded but 4 very long blocks of vendors with fresh fruit, vegetables, baked items and crafts. As we were leaving Mary remembered that we must visit Bubblegum Alley. Holy cow and a bit disgusting.