Friday, February 11, 2011

Day 10 - Tropea's dirty little secret - A movie star and it's exactly 189 steps to the top

Started out as a gray day today. Couldn't see the horizon this morning, the sea was exactly the same color as the sky. The only thing breaking up the contrast were fishing vessels in the distance.

After email and yet another of the continuing seemingly endless loads of laundry, I was off for my daily walk. This time north on the back roads with the intent of ending up at the marina once more.

Along the Via Del Carmine I came upon yet another ancient church, this one the Santuario di S. Francesco di. Paola built in 1802 and situated outside old town Tropea.

Inside, the vaulted ceiling of the nave had a wonderful mural of S. Francesco di. Paola ascending to Heaven (my interpretation). Here's the picture you can judge for yourself as to my interpretive skills.


Also notice to right of his head the big waterspot damage to this work of art. This wasn't the only one, there were also several of the beautiful portraits in the many alcoves of the church that showed damage. Here's another it's a signed picture by one, Michele Mazzetelli, in 1838





All these portraits, I believe there were 10, were on canvas and all suffered some kind of damage. Maybe I'm oversimplifying or just being way too negative in a country where priceless works of art are a dime a dozen, but I was mildly shocked at the condition of these portraits. I know I don't have all the facts but I certainly hope that somethings being done to keep these works of art safe.They do have a website (in Italian) 
http://sanfrancescodipaola.calabresi.net/component/option,com_frontpage/Itemid,1/

That's a good sign.

In the immediate area of the church were several new homes that afforded their owners great views of the sea, the hillsides and old town (Sorry, no pictures) It was a mixed use area that had orange groves, new construction sites and fields of Tropea Onions.



I eventually ended up at the port and took this picture of the view back towards the old town.

It's very clean. (I know I'm being uber picky).

So did you know that there are several famous people from Tropea. Two of which you might recognize. The dirty little secret that Tropea doesn't want you to know is that one of America's most notorious criminals was born in Tropea in 1902. None other than Albert "Mad Hatter" Anastasia, a member of Murder Inc. part of the "Lucky" Luciano crime family. (this is all paraphrased via Ask.com Encyclopedia.)

The other and less controversial son of Tropea is none other than Raf Vallone. For those of you, like me who love Italian cinema you'll recognize the star of the Italian classic Riso Amaro (Bitter Rice) and such US movies like El Cid, Godfather 3 and the Cardinal. I liked him. He's got a street named for him right by the marina. (Sorry you can google him or Albert to see pictures. I don't want to get into copyright issues here.)


I also have been taking lessons on how to trim trees. They have a unique way of doing it here. Wonder if my big tree would like to have a trim like this. No, they aren't dead or diseased.



In order to continue rehabing my knee, I've come to love the stairway to heaven here in Tropea. It's exactly 189 stairs up and ends in a nice, seldom used graffiti covered piazza. From a distance it looks like this.



It's steep and one of four from sea level up to the old town. I'll share the rest for you lovers of torture later.


And finally, I continue to be amazed by how cavernous my little washing machine really is.
Two sheets and two pillow cases and probably still had room for a pair of socks.ALL IN ONE LOAD.

I'm done picking on it. No more jokes. I love my Italian washing machine.

Tomorrow, I continue to be mistaken for a foreigner and I dine out with 500 choices.

Ciao for now. Still wishing you were here to share.



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