You know what the Roman philosophers said: "A week without olives is like not being in Italy for a week". I've cured that deficiency.
The OLIVE BAR IS OPEN!!
Make that the olive, sausage and formaggi bar. Notice how even the vendors are fashionable. Nice scarf (black, of course), it wasn't that cold (probably 52) but nowhere is somewhere to make a fashion statement. Nice guy, very patient as I wanted some of every kind of olive he had.
Tropea has a two tier market that's only in use on Saturdays. The upper level is for the big guys who pull their mobile shops in and lay out the goods. These goods include dishes, chairs, cleaning utensils, every kind of electronic good you can imagine (clocks, hair dryers, etc.), candy vendors, nuts, salted fish, fresh beef and yes for the first time on my trip, chicken. I was beginning to think Italians have sworn off chicken because of bird flu or something. It's never on a menu and none of the "mini markets" or butcher shops I'd been in had any. Strange to say the least. And Turkeys? Forgetaboutit.
But here today in Tropea, at this mobile butcher shop. Chicken. And just look at the crowds in the queue. It's the hit of the day. (Their sign says "Sell Outdoors" Catchy, huh?)
It'll be IFC for dinner to night folks. (Italian Fried Chicken)
I can see why folks do so much of their shopping on Saturday as the prices seem to be 30-40% lower for basic items that you might buy in the mini-markets. 1 lb. package of Penne Rigate is 1.40 euros in the minis, on Saturday it's .90 euros. That's about a 65 cent savings. (Yup, I'll be having Penne Rigate for dinner next week).
The lower market is one that's open daily in Tropea. There's always fruit, veggie, fish and bread vendors open. On Saturday, it's also plant and flower day. A wide variety of just household plants as well as fruit trees and cut flowers show up.
and yes that's a little market bar in the background. It was doing quite a brisk business in espresso today.
I also paid a visit to my vegetable guy today. No special prices or anything, just needed some tomatoes, apples and bananas. He's a really nice guy and always tries to engage me in conversation. His broken English and my nearly non existent Italian, we crack each other up. That's him on the far left in the (shock) grey sweater..
Seems I'm always being mistaken for a foreigner. I was in France a few years back and had to make a trip to the emergency room when I tore off my big toe nail. When the doctor came in I told him that I didn't speak much French and he said it was okay since he went to medical school in Salt Lake City. But he said he was surprised that I was an American. I asked why and he said "You have nothing printed on your t-shirt. All Americans have something on their t-shirts. (type cast much?). So I said "Oh, you must have thought I was German, huh?" He calmly replied "Never German. Swedish, maybe." (No hard feelings about the past).
Anyway, when I first went into my produce guys stall, he looks at me and says "Dutch?"
I must just have that continental look about me. I told him no, American and he just looked at me again like I was mistaken and says "OK".
Today, he gives be a big old grin and says :"California?" No sorry, Colorado. "Bene, yes" Molto bene, buddy!
Anyone for fresh spices? No canned stuff here.
All this stuff is homemade folks. No labels on the sausage, cheese or wine. The fresh, never refrigerated eggs were like 30 cents each. A bit on the steep side, but then they are fresh.
Finally a couple views of the fish stall. This is fresh stuff as well. That smell reminds me of the cleaning tables at Blue Mesa.
Fresh, fresh shrimp and squid. No calamari fritti here that I've found anyway. And..
Okay, I've been remiss in keeping you up to date on my dining adventures and apologize to you for it. I went into town on Thursday evening just to have a walk and mingle. Decided to check out which restaurants are open and which aren't (it's off season and I'd have to say 80% or better are closed.) Found one little place right by the piazza with great views of the Stromboli volcano that offered 500 varieties of pizza. Now I don't know about you, but that seems a bit like OVERKILL!
I tried my best to find two that were duplicates, but my eyes crossed and my attention waned. So in I go for an impromptu dinner. And I didn't have pizza. Decided to save that for a night that I wanted take out. I had a antipasto plate of Calabrian specialities including sausage, cheese, pickled fish and squid. Quite yummy. For my primo plate I had thinly sliced beef with fresh porcini mushrooms and gravy. So no pics, gotta remember to always take the camera.
Good food, one problem. Forgot to ask if they took Credit Cards. They didn't. No problem the pizza chef says, Bancomat. So a quick trip to the machine and a quick moment of embarrassment is passed. Again, very nice people running the place. They tried their best to make me feel welcome and enjoy myself. I'll be a repeat customer, but tonight I want seafood.
For another day. A graduate of the Joe Tschauner School of wine making sold me this. And yes it has a bottle cap.
1 liter 2.50E (3.38 US) Gawd I hope it's good, I can become a wino on the cheap then.
Okay enough. Have you noticed that these things are getting longer and longer. You just can't shut me up now that I have a captive audience..
Ciao for now.
P.S. Mama B made me lunch today. Broccoli Pasta. I swear her husband had better watch out. I'm thinking of taking her home with me. Good stuff.
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